Archive for June, 2006

Home sweet home…

(Or back to ‘old clothes and porridge’ as my Mom would say!)

Yes, we are back in lovely Britain. (erm) Or, more accurately, beautiful Edinburgh! :) We actually got back on Friday morning, but then we had a weekend away with my parents, and Matt (wee brother) and his fiancee Bethan. (he’s obviously not that wee, being 22 years old!) Obviously, we went to Wales after South Africa so that we didn’t feel yet down by doing it the other way, and it was very pleasant indeed. ;)

There is a pretty massive contrast from leaving Cape Town on Thursday and then being in Wales on Friday! Everything seemed so much greener, and so much tidier, quainter, quieter! We stayed at Camomile Cottage, possibly the loveliest B&B that I have ever stayed in. The owners have become family friends, so its a holiday and a happy reunion whenever we go to Wales to stay.

In contrast, Cape Town was busy, (although laid back in comparison with Jo’burg) colourful and stunningly beautiful in its location. We really enjoyed our time there, even though it was a little rainy. We went to Simon’s train (on the train) and then got a rikki (smaller version of a South African taxi – the real kind, not the nice ones!) to Cape Point. We struggled against the wind to reach the old lighthouse, and it was totally worth it. It really felt like we were standing at the tip of Africa! (Or most south-westerly tip for those particularly accurate readers!) To see the waves crashing against the rocks far below us, and seeing the coast line stretching away to either side of us was amazing. The whole area of the Table Mountain Reserve was very striking. The ‘fynbos’ covered hills cut into by dramatic coastline, the white sand pounded by turquoise waves… its incredible. None of my photos could do it justice!

We also went to Stellenbosch (also on the train!) and hired bikes when we got there, so that we could visit a couple of wine farms. We ended up at Lanzerac estate, which was set in lovely gardens, with old Cape-Dutch style architechture. We tasted 5 (or 6, or 7…) wines and were told all about them etc. We had to look like we knew what we were doing, even though we couldn’t really have looked more hopeless! (Needless to say we didn’t pour any wine away!) It was a great experience and greatly enhanced the cycle back to Stellenbosch train station. :)

Cape Town itself is a vibrant, exciting place. We stayed in Seapoint, which is well placed to access the Waterfront and town. Walking along the promenade in the winter sunshine were people from all the different backgrounds, economic status, class and age. A true melting pot, and it felt amazing to be part of that. Although officially apartheid ended over 10 years ago now, because of the way that the previous government organised the races, people are still very much segregated. There is an increasing black middle class, but for the most part, living and social areas are still defined by colour. I think that it will just take time for complete and full integration to occur naturally. However, there are still areas of gross poverty and ostentatious wealth living shoulder-to-shoulder. I believe that this is the greatest challenge to white South Africans today. I think that most whites would agree that although they did not agree with apartheid, they were not going to speak up, as it benefitted them to maintain the status quo. Now that South Africa is free, they are free from the guilt that may have dogged them, but the frequent mistake that seems to occur now is that whites complain about problems but do not contribute to the solution. They chose to ignore the problems during apartheid, and now that apathetic attitude pervades their behaviour. For example, whites will complain that the police force is corrupt, yet when stopped for a speeding offence, will bribe the police official. It is not just the one that accepts the bribe that is guilty, the corruption is perpetuated by the offerer! There also seems to be great political apathy. Unfortunately, the reaction by whites to the problems that they encounter is to put up higher walls, more fences and complain to each other about it all. This never meant to be a rant, however I feel very passionate about South Africa. I do not want to see it become just another African country to become a basket case. From all indications, it won’t, but real peace and acceptance will only happen when people start working together.

Now that we are back home, we have four short weeks left in Edinburgh. Matt and Bethan get married on the 29th July, so we’ll be heading down to Kent a few days before that. Then Phil will be heading off the Prague to start his TESOL course, and I will follow shortly after him, after going up to Wick for Sue and Stuart’s wedding. I can’t believe that we only have 4 weeks left in our beautiful little flat! We’re sorting out letting out our flat at the moment, and its a right business! Sorting out the good from the bad and ugly agents is a job for MacGyver!

Anyway, that is all from me for today. Hopefully it is sunny where you are, cause its a bit grey and windy in Auld Reekie. :)

2 comments June 21, 2006

Travelling and free wine..

Hello and sawubona from sunny South Africa!

I am sorry for not keeping in touch thus far, but internet access has not been as widely available as I had anticipated! But anyway, I will update you on our travels so far:

We started in Jo’burg, where we saw my extended family and some of my old friends. It was really fantastic catching up with everyone and seeing how they were. My gran is pretty ill, so it was hard seeing her frail and not as she was when she was younger, but it was still good seeing her and my grandad. We then went to the Kruger National Park for a long weekend which was great, we saw buffalo, lions, giraffes, zebras, rhinos, elephants (my favourites!) as well as lots of different antelope and many brilliant birds! It really was great to be out in the ‘wild’ (as it were)! Phil really enjoyed it too, and even managed with the early morning game drives! :) In Jo’burg we went to the Apartheid Museum, which was really brilliant. It was humbling, informative and very inspiring. It made me alot more aware of the history of South Africa, the problems that she has overcome and the many challenges that she still faces.

After Jo’burg we went to Durban to visit Elspeth in Amanzimtoti (just for the day) and then down to San Lameer (near to Ramsgate). It was so brilliant seeing Elle and visiting the centre that she has been working in since February. The kids and the people who worked there were so welcoming and friendly, we really enjoyed our day there. Elle also treated us to a Goth band night in Durban (oh yeah!) it was special. :) We were joined in San Lameer by my lovely parentals, it was a great time of walks on the beach and good chats around the braai (barbeque)!  We are now at the Wild Coast and I think that I am in love. Never before have I felt suh peace with a place. The coast is absolutely beautiful and very very quiet too. We are staying at a backpackers called Buccaneers and have met some interesting people, mainly from the UK (its a small small world!) Tonight we were painting flags and drinking (free) wine in the World Cup build-up time! It has been really good fun. Phil is in his element because the World Cup has finally started (he has been counting the nights!) so all is good! We are heading to Cape Town on Sunday which should be really good fun too.

Being in South Africa is amazing for me. I think that it is the only country that I will ever have feelings of genuine passion for. Yesterday we visitied a small local primary school, where they saw songs for us and that sort of thing. Their last song was Nkosi Sikele (the South African National anthem) and the kids sang it with so much pride! Luckily, they asked us all to stand before they sang it, so I was able to stand and sing it with all my heart without anyone thinking that I was a right weirdo! This country is absolutely beautiful. Not just the land itself, but the people. Everywhere that we have gone we have met happy, smiling people. The kids at the school that we went to yesterday, and kids that we saw in Amanzimtoti: they are so happy, but yet they have so little compared to us. It really was humbling. The country itself is so diverse too. From the frenetic energy of Johannesburg, to the serene mountains, and the lush coast line. I have really loved every minute. The only hard part is trying to figure out where I fit in. I left South Africa when I was 15 years old. That is 9 years ago now, and it feels like a long time. I have realised that I no longer long for the South Africa that I left, but the South Africa that is emerging. There are so many people that need help, and so many opportunities to be explored! South Africa is a land of opportunities indeed and its wonderful colourful people will continue to make it a great nation if they work together. Obviously, it has problems. I guess crime would be one of the main ones at the moment. But as a country it is booming. Property prices have rocketed and the ecomony is doing fantastically well. (I wish that some of my South African friends could appreciate how much their country has going for it, instead of just focusing on the negatives.) But anyway, those are just some of my observations. South Africa has so much potential, I just hope and pray that she continues to be the rainbow nation that she is, alive with hopes, dreams and aspirations.

So for now, I will say goodbye. Lots of beautiful African sunshine and love to you! xxx

Add comment June 9, 2006


 

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